For those who have already searched for Oman online, the first image that often appears is that of the Mutrah Corniche and its blue-mosaic Al Rasool Al A’dham Mosque.
Overlooking this lovely corniche is a fort bearing the same name, which offers a breathtaking view over this part of Muscat. It can be reached on foot and, in my opinion, it is best to visit at a sensible time of day so that you do not have to climb its steps in the scorching heat.
Mutrah Fort bears witness to the strategic importance of this port, which held a major place in Omani trade. Its market was connected to trading routes with India and East Africa, among other regions. According to Oman’s official tourism website, the fort is believed to have been built by the Portuguese in the 1580s before being rebuilt under the Ya’aruba rulers. Today, it remains a symbol of the country’s maritime and commercial history.
After this visit, it is customary to walk along the corniche, where you may see the Sultan’s yacht, and also to venture into the town’s souq. The souqs of the Arab world often bring to mind a shared vision of colours, scents and flavours.
More than 200 years old, Mutrah Souq is among the oldest souqs in the Arab world. It is also known as Al Dhalam, “the dark market”, a name explained by its narrow, covered lanes, where little sunlight reaches, and by the late arrival of electricity, which was installed in the 1970s. I have enjoyed getting lost in the maze of this place where, I must admit, you want to buy everything. There are spices in abundance, beautiful scarves and all kinds of jewellery, as well as Omani frankincense, silver objects and khanjars, the traditional Omani daggers.
One shop in particular made an impression on me, and I return whenever I can during my travels. It has the distinctive feature of being reached by a small mosaic staircase decorated with the blue eye so often seen in the Arab world, but it also offers a welcome that feels timeless. Its owner, an Omani, is an exceptionally kind host who will happily talk with you about the history of his country as well as that of his shop.
Although its name, Ali Baba, may seem like a cliché, I warmly encourage everyone to visit, both for the conversation and for the lovely objects of all kinds available to buy.
Photo gallery
Discover photographs from this visit.
© Croissant & Karak — Text and photographs by Faustine. All rights reserved. Reproduction or reuse requires prior permission, subject to exceptions provided by law.